Let's get sewing!

Here's how to read your templates and sew them together. If anything doesn't make sense, or you get stuck, just send me an email. I'm always happy to help.

Before you print

If your printer shows an error or asks to shrink the page, it's usually trying to print the landscape guide pages. Just print from the first piece page onwards. Printing from a phone can change the size, so a computer is safest.

Before you start

Reading your templates

A labelled example template showing piece names, fabric numbers, solid sewing lines, the dotted cutting line and alignment markers

I've drawn the fabric see-through, like holding your template up to a window or light box.

The first fabric covering piece A1 on the template

1 Start with piece 1

Cut your fabric pieces about ½" (1.3cm) bigger than their shapes on the template. Scraps are perfect for this! Hold the template printed side down and lay the first fabric (the fabric number shown in A1) right side up on the blank side, so it covers A1 with at least ¼" (0.6cm) to spare all round. Holding it up to a window or a light box helps you check, and a dab of a washable school glue stick or water-soluble fabric glue keeps it in place.

The second fabric on top, sewn along the line between A1 and A2

2 Add piece 2 and sew

Lay the second fabric (the fabric number shown in A2) on top, right sides together, with its edge reaching at least ¼" (0.6cm) past the line between A1 and A2. Flip the template over and sew right on the line with a short stitch (1.5mm or less). Go 2–3 stitches past each end of the line, so the seam stays put when the paper comes off.

The paper folded on the seam, with the fabric trimmed a quarter inch beyond it

3 Fold and trim

Fold the paper back along the line you just sewed (a postcard can help make a nice crisp fold), then trim the fabric to ¼" (0.6cm) beyond the fold. An add-a-quarter ruler makes this really easy. Leave the outside edges of the section for now.

The second fabric pressed open to cover A2

4 Press it open

Flip the second fabric over so it covers A2, and press it flat with a dry iron, or just your finger. Hold it up to the light again. If A2 isn't fully covered, don't worry! Unpick it and try again with a slightly bigger piece. It happens to all of us.

All four pieces of the section covered with fabric

5 Keep going!

Add the rest of the pieces in number order in just the same way, A3 and then A4, until the whole section is covered.

The trimmed section from the printed side and the fabric side

6 Trim your section

Trim all the way round on the dotted line. That leaves your ¼" (0.6cm) seam allowance in place. Turn it over and you'll see it's a mirror image of the template. That's exactly right!

Sections A and B pinned together at matching alignment markers

7 Join your sections

Follow the Assembly Instructions to put your sections together. Place two sections right sides together, push a pin through the matching alignment markers on both papers, then sew on the solid outer line. Pressing these seams open keeps things flat where lots of seams meet.

8 Tear away the paper

Once all sections are joined, carefully tear away the paper and give your quilt top a final press. Then stand back and admire your work!

My favourite trick

I push a straight pin through matching alignment markers to line them up perfectly, then clamp them with alligator clips. Once a seam is sewn, I take the paper off that seam before adding the next section. It makes the final paper removal so much easier, and lets me make little adjustments as I go.

Sections with just one piece

Some sections are just one piece, so there's nothing to sew. Glue it right side up on the blank side with a washable glue stick or water-soluble fabric glue, ¼" (0.6cm) to spare all round. Keep the glue off the lines. You can also stitch just outside the solid line for extra hold, then trim on the dotted line.